November 11 2022 – Day 0
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I will be out of office from 14 Nov to 18 Nov with limited internet connectivity. Please reach out on WhatsApp for anything urgent.
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I typed out my “out of office” (aka OOO) message with uncontrollable excitement and urgency on the evening of November 11. There was still a fair bit of packing left to do ahead of my week-long vacation to the North East – Arunachal Pradesh and Assam.
3 months ago
The preliminary planning for the journey started way back in July/August. A couple of my friends (whom I had met on a trek before) casually told me they were planning to go on a week-long trip to the North East in November and that I should also plan to join if I’m interested. My first surprise was that they even made me this offer, considering they had met me only once! Moreover, while I had become used to going for one-day treks by now, taking off for an entire week was something I did not expect to do.
I told them I would “think about it”. Usually, that response would mean forgetting about it and never bringing it up again. This time, however, I was genuinely intrigued by the prospect of a one-week trip, especially to a part of India I had never been to. Three months later, I would realise that going on the trip was one of the best decisions I would have made.
2 months ago
By September, I had decided I wanted to go on this trip. I had applied for leave from work and paid the advance amount to Wandering Souls (the agency we were planning to go with). Then came the convincing my parents – which is particularly difficult if you have spent 22 years of your life within a 10 km radius from your house and suddenly want to travel 2,000 km away. Surprisingly, they were okay with it – or rather, they knew I had made up my mind, so they gave in.
By now, I got to know that a few others I had met on treks were also coming on the same trip (in fact, I would later learn that of the 16 people on the trip, 14 of us knew each other some way or the other). Being the kind of person who does not want surprises, I soon started troubling the others with various “doubts” – “Can I bring my laptop?” “What will the temperatures be like?” “Campsite means we will stay in a tent or what?” and most importantly, “Will I get network on my phone?”
1 month ago
Sometime towards the end of October, the group leaders had a call on Google Meet to give an overview of the trip and what to expect. They even sent a detailed checklist on an Excel sheet with what to carry! Knowing the group and the agenda for the trip – and having all my doubts cleared – I was all set to go and eagerly waited for the date – November 12.
Day 1 – November 12: Guwahati > Nameri
The day started at 4 AM. Despite going through the checklist of items multiple times and carrying enough winter wear that made my luggage exceed the airline limit of 15kg, I still felt nervous and doubtful if I packed everything.
The flight from Mumbai to Guwahati took off at 6:30 AM and landed at 9:30 AM – and I slept most of the way. Fourteen of us were at the airport that morning, and we would later pick up two more people. As we got into a Tempo Traveller to start our 6-hour drive from Guwahati to Nameri, we started the journey with the standard slogan of Bharat Mata ki Jai!

We reached the Nameri campsite at 6:30 PM. Over snacks and drinks, we all introduced ourselves to each other. That’s when I realised how diverse this group was – in terms of age (I was the youngest at 24, and the oldest was around 40), career (consulting, finance, start-up, pharma, etc.), and interests (music, reading, photography, etc.). And yet we were all in the same place, united by our love for travelling.
Post dinner, while some of us sat around a bonfire and continued to chat, I went to my shared tent to sleep after a tiring day.
Day 2 – November 13: Nameri > Dirang
At 6:30 AM the following day, we went to a nearby tiger reserve. Unlike the “tiger safaris” that I had heard of, here we just… walked right into the jungle! Of course, we had a couple of forest guards to accompany us. While we didn’t see any tigers (although I’m sure we heard roars not too far away), we did see a couple of deer, a few elephants, and hornbills.




From the campsite, we left at around 11 AM. We crossed the Assam-Arunachal border, stopped briefly at the Nichipula waterfall, and continued towards Dirang. From this evening, we started to feel the stark difference in temperatures – while we had survived on 1-2 layers of clothing till then, the single-digit temperatures at Dirang forced us to bring out the woollens!
Once we reached the homestay, I had to revise my mental image of a homestay completely – I was expecting a PG-like setup where we would stay in a simple house, but the place we went to was massive! Apart from having nine or so rooms across three floors, it also had TVs in every room and a TT table. Following a round of Never have I ever over drinks (I had Diet Coke), we had dinner. While the night went on much longer for the others, I was deep asleep by 11:30 PM.
Day 3 – November 14: Dirang > Sela Pass > Tawang
Today was the first Monday morning in a long time when I did not have any work-related pressure about how the week ahead would be. After a scrumptious breakfast – and several group and solo photos later – we left the homestay and went to the Dirang Monastery. The monastery immediately brought about a calming effect thanks to its massive garden in the front, a 360-degree scenic view, and, of course, a beautiful and peaceful prayer hall.

Next on our agenda was Sela Pass – at 13,700 feet above sea level, it is one of the highest motorable passes in the world. A thick fog blocked our view as we got out of the bus and into the sub-zero temperature outside. But as it cleared soon enough, we got a breathtaking view of Paradise Lake. In the distance, we could also see the snow-capped mountains.

We stopped at a War Memorial next, dedicated to Jaswant Singh Rawat, an Indian soldier who single-handedly fought the Chinese soldiers near the Sela Pass during the Sino-Indian war in 1962. We were lucky that day – we got to see a bunch of soldiers practising for a cultural program to commemorate the 60th anniversary of Jaswant’s day of action (November 17 1962).
We reached our homestay at around 8 PM that night. While the temperature outside was close to zero, the dining area had a heater that gave us all some much-needed relief. What started as a small sub-group of us listening to songs soon became a house party of sorts – with all 16 of us singing, dancing, and cheering in unison in a single room that night.
Day 4 – November 15: Tawang local exploration
Per the agenda, Day 4 was supposed to be a “rest day” with minimal travel except for places within Tawang. After breakfast, we walked down to the Tawang Monastery – the second largest in Asia. Then we went to another monastery with a giant Buddha statue. To my surprise, I found four other Tamilians in a coffee shop nearby – they had planned a two-week biking trip across Meghalaya and Arunachal.


Then, we went to the 400-year-old Urgelling Monastery – considered the birthplace of the Dalai Lama VI. After a late lunch, we proceeded to the Tawang War Memorial – again dedicated to the soldiers of the 1962 war.

The initial plan was to spend the evening shopping, but all the shops were closed that day. So, we just went back to the homestay; most of us retired early, given the hectic schedule for tomorrow.
Day 5 – November 16: Tawang > Sangetsar Lake > Bum La Pass > Tawang
Day 5 was arguably the most exciting day of the trip. After breakfast, we went in three SUVs towards Bum La Pass (where large vehicles weren’t allowed). We first went to Sangetsar Lake – a beautiful lake between mountains. As we drove towards Bum La through snow-covered mountains, I was awed by the sheer beauty and tranquillity of it all (and even more so given that this is the first time in my life that I’m seeing actual snow).


Once we reached the pass – at an altitude of 15,200 feet – we were escorted by a couple of military personnel to the point that is the closest the public could get to the Indo-China border. An army commander narrated a few instances of the 1962 war that occurred near the pass. An interesting thing that happened was that while we were there, the time on all our phones shifted 2.5 hours ahead!


We returned to Tawang after that and decided to use the evening to shop. While most stores seemed to sell only apparel or ceramics, we found some good shops to buy souvenirs and gifts.
As some of us gathered in the dining area in the homestay that night, I decided to sing a couple of Hindi songs (I started with Soch Na Sake and Mere Samne Wali Khidiki) – including some that I was singing for the first time outside my bathroom. Encouraged by their response, I sang a few more, which turned into a game of Antakshari, going on till 1 AM.
Day 6 – November 17: Tawang > Sangti Valley
We departed Tawang on Day 6. Our first stop for the day was Chagzam Bridge – a 600-year-old iron suspension bridge. We then went to Jang Falls – a waterfall with water dropping from a height of 100 metres or so with a magnificent rainbow effect. The view seemed too good to be true, and the fact that the waterfall was so secluded (unlike the falls I’ve seen in South India that are always teeming with tourists) made it all the more pretty.



From Jang, we headed back towards Dirang, crossing Sela Pass on the way again. We took another group picture at the famous “Welcome to Tawang” archway. Amidst the thick fog (that would be there for another 15km), we could experience a few minutes of snowfall – another “first” for me.

As we approached Sangti Valley, almost all the major telecom networks stopped working; for the first time on this trip – except for a few instances in between – we seemed to be cut off from communication with the outside world. We reached our stay for the night – this time in a row of cottages alongside a flowing river (although it was already quite dark by then, so we couldn’t see the view).
Sitting around a bonfire, enjoying the cold breeze with a light drizzle of rainfall, having hot food, and for once, not being distracted by social media or work emails was the perfect way to end the day.
Day 7 – November 18: Sangti Valley > Guwahati
As I stepped out on the morning of the 18th, I was swept away by the mesmerising view of the flowing river. The “dress code” for the last day was the Tawang-themed t-shirt Wandering Souls gave each of us (with an adorable Buddha on the front!). Knowing this was our last day with scenic backdrops for photos, we tried almost every combination of solo and group photos.


At around 11 AM, we bade goodbye to Sangti Valley and started our day-long drive back towards Guwahati, tracing back most of the routes we had taken on the first day. Apart from a few songs I sang and some games we played (dumb charades, Heads Up), the ride was uneventful till the evening. I tried to sleep but could not, so I decided to make some memes based on the events over the past week. While I started with just a few, the overwhelming response I got from the group made me think of more – and in the next 2-3 hours, I had made more than 15 memes.
As we pulled into the city of Guwahati – sometime around 8:30 PM or so – the neon lights, loud vehicle honking, and crowded streets served as a reminder that our time spent in the paradise of mountains was coming to an end. The hotel we stayed in that night had air-conditioned rooms and glass elevators and – as we would know the following day – a buffet breakfast, significantly different from the homely environments we were in the last week.
After dinner, we all gathered in the dining area (we had the place to ourselves, given it was already nearing midnight) to recall our experiences and memories over the last seven days. We gave our long/short farewell speeches and agreed to do a “Post-Tawang” meet-up in Mumbai or Bangalore. As I returned to my room, I felt incredibly thankful for having been part of this experience and for meeting this group of people. This journey was one of many “firsts” for me – singing new songs in front of people, dancing in a moving bus, or walking on snow. At the same time, I couldn’t help but feel sad that the journey would be over tomorrow morning.

The aftermath
Seven days, a few thousand kilometres, and some 2,500 photos later, I was back home, still unable to believe that the week had flown by so fast. In any trek or outing that I have been on, I have always tried to enjoy the reality of the landscapes and views instead of looking at them through my phone camera. And, as you can guess, I have failed pretty much every time. There seems to be a fundamental human urge to make memories instead of enjoying the experiences by being in the moment – as I wrote about in my first blog post.
But it is possible that because every moment is so fleeting, we try to extend the experience in any way possible, and what better way to do it than capture it in a photo or video? Going back to Arunachal every month would not be feasible, but you can certainly stir up all the memories as you go through the trove of photos – from the exotic sceneries to the dinner (and drinks) conversations at the homestays. Sometimes a virtual getaway into a world of pictures and memories is still effective.
While my interest in trekking and exploration started only a few months ago, as I listened to the others narrate their travel and exploration experiences, I realised the numerous options for adventure activities within India – from cliff-jumping to canyoning to river rafting to zip-lining. My bucket list has exploded with activities I’m yet to do and places I’m yet to visit. This Tawang trip was a special one for me, and hopefully, each of these other journeys – whenever they happen – will be as special.




















