The North East – Exotic and Unexplored

November 11 2022 – Day 0

Hi

I will be out of office from 14 Nov to 18 Nov with limited internet connectivity. Please reach out on WhatsApp for anything urgent.
Thanks!

I typed out my “out of office” (aka OOO) message with uncontrollable excitement and urgency on the evening of November 11. There was still a fair bit of packing left to do ahead of my week-long vacation to the North East – Arunachal Pradesh and Assam.

3 months ago

The preliminary planning for the journey started way back in July/August. A couple of my friends (whom I had met on a trek before) casually told me they were planning to go on a week-long trip to the North East in November and that I should also plan to join if I’m interested. My first surprise was that they even made me this offer, considering they had met me only once! Moreover, while I had become used to going for one-day treks by now, taking off for an entire week was something I did not expect to do.

I told them I would “think about it”. Usually, that response would mean forgetting about it and never bringing it up again. This time, however, I was genuinely intrigued by the prospect of a one-week trip, especially to a part of India I had never been to. Three months later, I would realise that going on the trip was one of the best decisions I would have made.

2 months ago

By September, I had decided I wanted to go on this trip. I had applied for leave from work and paid the advance amount to Wandering Souls (the agency we were planning to go with). Then came the convincing my parents – which is particularly difficult if you have spent 22 years of your life within a 10 km radius from your house and suddenly want to travel 2,000 km away. Surprisingly, they were okay with it – or rather, they knew I had made up my mind, so they gave in.

By now, I got to know that a few others I had met on treks were also coming on the same trip (in fact, I would later learn that of the 16 people on the trip, 14 of us knew each other some way or the other). Being the kind of person who does not want surprises, I soon started troubling the others with various “doubts” – “Can I bring my laptop?” “What will the temperatures be like?” “Campsite means we will stay in a tent or what?” and most importantly, “Will I get network on my phone?”

1 month ago

Sometime towards the end of October, the group leaders had a call on Google Meet to give an overview of the trip and what to expect. They even sent a detailed checklist on an Excel sheet with what to carry! Knowing the group and the agenda for the trip – and having all my doubts cleared – I was all set to go and eagerly waited for the date – November 12.

Day 1 – November 12: Guwahati > Nameri

The day started at 4 AM. Despite going through the checklist of items multiple times and carrying enough winter wear that made my luggage exceed the airline limit of 15kg, I still felt nervous and doubtful if I packed everything.

The flight from Mumbai to Guwahati took off at 6:30 AM and landed at 9:30 AM – and I slept most of the way. Fourteen of us were at the airport that morning, and we would later pick up two more people. As we got into a Tempo Traveller to start our 6-hour drive from Guwahati to Nameri, we started the journey with the standard slogan of Bharat Mata ki Jai!

A view of the Brahmaputra river just as the sun was setting – taken at around 4:30 PM. By 5:15 or so in the North East, the sun sets completely

We reached the Nameri campsite at 6:30 PM. Over snacks and drinks, we all introduced ourselves to each other. That’s when I realised how diverse this group was – in terms of age (I was the youngest at 24, and the oldest was around 40), career (consulting, finance, start-up, pharma, etc.), and interests (music, reading, photography, etc.). And yet we were all in the same place, united by our love for travelling.

Post dinner, while some of us sat around a bonfire and continued to chat, I went to my shared tent to sleep after a tiring day.

Day 2 – November 13: Nameri > Dirang

At 6:30 AM the following day, we went to a nearby tiger reserve. Unlike the “tiger safaris” that I had heard of, here we just… walked right into the jungle! Of course, we had a couple of forest guards to accompany us. While we didn’t see any tigers (although I’m sure we heard roars not too far away), we did see a couple of deer, a few elephants, and hornbills.

We had to take a rowboat to reach the tiger reserve on the other side
These paw prints were the closest we got to seeing tigers that day
A view of the tiger reserve from atop a watch tower

From the campsite, we left at around 11 AM. We crossed the Assam-Arunachal border, stopped briefly at the Nichipula waterfall, and continued towards Dirang. From this evening, we started to feel the stark difference in temperatures – while we had survived on 1-2 layers of clothing till then, the single-digit temperatures at Dirang forced us to bring out the woollens!

Once we reached the homestay, I had to revise my mental image of a homestay completely – I was expecting a PG-like setup where we would stay in a simple house, but the place we went to was massive! Apart from having nine or so rooms across three floors, it also had TVs in every room and a TT table. Following a round of Never have I ever over drinks (I had Diet Coke), we had dinner. While the night went on much longer for the others, I was deep asleep by 11:30 PM.

Day 3 – November 14: Dirang > Sela Pass > Tawang

Today was the first Monday morning in a long time when I did not have any work-related pressure about how the week ahead would be. After a scrumptious breakfast – and several group and solo photos later – we left the homestay and went to the Dirang Monastery. The monastery immediately brought about a calming effect thanks to its massive garden in the front, a 360-degree scenic view, and, of course, a beautiful and peaceful prayer hall.

Dirang Monastery

Next on our agenda was Sela Pass – at 13,700 feet above sea level, it is one of the highest motorable passes in the world. A thick fog blocked our view as we got out of the bus and into the sub-zero temperature outside. But as it cleared soon enough, we got a breathtaking view of Paradise Lake. In the distance, we could also see the snow-capped mountains.

Paradise Lake at Sela Pass

We stopped at a War Memorial next, dedicated to Jaswant Singh Rawat, an Indian soldier who single-handedly fought the Chinese soldiers near the Sela Pass during the Sino-Indian war in 1962. We were lucky that day – we got to see a bunch of soldiers practising for a cultural program to commemorate the 60th anniversary of Jaswant’s day of action (November 17 1962).

We reached our homestay at around 8 PM that night. While the temperature outside was close to zero, the dining area had a heater that gave us all some much-needed relief. What started as a small sub-group of us listening to songs soon became a house party of sorts – with all 16 of us singing, dancing, and cheering in unison in a single room that night.

Day 4 – November 15: Tawang local exploration

Per the agenda, Day 4 was supposed to be a “rest day” with minimal travel except for places within Tawang. After breakfast, we walked down to the Tawang Monastery – the second largest in Asia. Then we went to another monastery with a giant Buddha statue. To my surprise, I found four other Tamilians in a coffee shop nearby – they had planned a two-week biking trip across Meghalaya and Arunachal.

Inside the Tawang monastery
The Giant Buddha statue

Then, we went to the 400-year-old Urgelling Monastery – considered the birthplace of the Dalai Lama VI. After a late lunch, we proceeded to the Tawang War Memorial – again dedicated to the soldiers of the 1962 war.

The War Memorial

The initial plan was to spend the evening shopping, but all the shops were closed that day. So, we just went back to the homestay; most of us retired early, given the hectic schedule for tomorrow.

Day 5 – November 16: Tawang > Sangetsar Lake > Bum La Pass > Tawang

Day 5 was arguably the most exciting day of the trip. After breakfast, we went in three SUVs towards Bum La Pass (where large vehicles weren’t allowed). We first went to Sangetsar Lake – a beautiful lake between mountains. As we drove towards Bum La through snow-covered mountains, I was awed by the sheer beauty and tranquillity of it all (and even more so given that this is the first time in my life that I’m seeing actual snow).

Sangetsar lake and the mountains

Once we reached the pass – at an altitude of 15,200 feet – we were escorted by a couple of military personnel to the point that is the closest the public could get to the Indo-China border. An army commander narrated a few instances of the 1962 war that occurred near the pass. An interesting thing that happened was that while we were there, the time on all our phones shifted 2.5 hours ahead!

On the way to Bum La Pass
The view at 15,200 feet

We returned to Tawang after that and decided to use the evening to shop. While most stores seemed to sell only apparel or ceramics, we found some good shops to buy souvenirs and gifts.

As some of us gathered in the dining area in the homestay that night, I decided to sing a couple of Hindi songs (I started with Soch Na Sake and Mere Samne Wali Khidiki) – including some that I was singing for the first time outside my bathroom. Encouraged by their response, I sang a few more, which turned into a game of Antakshari, going on till 1 AM.

Day 6 – November 17: Tawang > Sangti Valley

We departed Tawang on Day 6. Our first stop for the day was Chagzam Bridge – a 600-year-old iron suspension bridge. We then went to Jang Falls – a waterfall with water dropping from a height of 100 metres or so with a magnificent rainbow effect. The view seemed too good to be true, and the fact that the waterfall was so secluded (unlike the falls I’ve seen in South India that are always teeming with tourists) made it all the more pretty.

Chagzam bridge
Jang falls…
…and the rainbow

From Jang, we headed back towards Dirang, crossing Sela Pass on the way again. We took another group picture at the famous “Welcome to Tawang” archway. Amidst the thick fog (that would be there for another 15km), we could experience a few minutes of snowfall – another “first” for me.

The whole squad in front of the Tawang arch

As we approached Sangti Valley, almost all the major telecom networks stopped working; for the first time on this trip – except for a few instances in between – we seemed to be cut off from communication with the outside world. We reached our stay for the night – this time in a row of cottages alongside a flowing river (although it was already quite dark by then, so we couldn’t see the view).

Sitting around a bonfire, enjoying the cold breeze with a light drizzle of rainfall, having hot food, and for once, not being distracted by social media or work emails was the perfect way to end the day.

Day 7 – November 18: Sangti Valley > Guwahati

As I stepped out on the morning of the 18th, I was swept away by the mesmerising view of the flowing river. The “dress code” for the last day was the Tawang-themed t-shirt Wandering Souls gave each of us (with an adorable Buddha on the front!). Knowing this was our last day with scenic backdrops for photos, we tried almost every combination of solo and group photos.

The whole squad again – this time in uniform

At around 11 AM, we bade goodbye to Sangti Valley and started our day-long drive back towards Guwahati, tracing back most of the routes we had taken on the first day. Apart from a few songs I sang and some games we played (dumb charades, Heads Up), the ride was uneventful till the evening. I tried to sleep but could not, so I decided to make some memes based on the events over the past week. While I started with just a few, the overwhelming response I got from the group made me think of more – and in the next 2-3 hours, I had made more than 15 memes.

As we pulled into the city of Guwahati – sometime around 8:30 PM or so – the neon lights, loud vehicle honking, and crowded streets served as a reminder that our time spent in the paradise of mountains was coming to an end. The hotel we stayed in that night had air-conditioned rooms and glass elevators and – as we would know the following day – a buffet breakfast, significantly different from the homely environments we were in the last week.

After dinner, we all gathered in the dining area (we had the place to ourselves, given it was already nearing midnight) to recall our experiences and memories over the last seven days. We gave our long/short farewell speeches and agreed to do a “Post-Tawang” meet-up in Mumbai or Bangalore. As I returned to my room, I felt incredibly thankful for having been part of this experience and for meeting this group of people. This journey was one of many “firsts” for me – singing new songs in front of people, dancing in a moving bus, or walking on snow. At the same time, I couldn’t help but feel sad that the journey would be over tomorrow morning.

One last view of the snow-capped mountains in the distance as I flew back to Mumbai

The aftermath

Seven days, a few thousand kilometres, and some 2,500 photos later, I was back home, still unable to believe that the week had flown by so fast. In any trek or outing that I have been on, I have always tried to enjoy the reality of the landscapes and views instead of looking at them through my phone camera. And, as you can guess, I have failed pretty much every time. There seems to be a fundamental human urge to make memories instead of enjoying the experiences by being in the moment – as I wrote about in my first blog post.

But it is possible that because every moment is so fleeting, we try to extend the experience in any way possible, and what better way to do it than capture it in a photo or video? Going back to Arunachal every month would not be feasible, but you can certainly stir up all the memories as you go through the trove of photos – from the exotic sceneries to the dinner (and drinks) conversations at the homestays. Sometimes a virtual getaway into a world of pictures and memories is still effective.

While my interest in trekking and exploration started only a few months ago, as I listened to the others narrate their travel and exploration experiences, I realised the numerous options for adventure activities within India – from cliff-jumping to canyoning to river rafting to zip-lining. My bucket list has exploded with activities I’m yet to do and places I’m yet to visit. This Tawang trip was a special one for me, and hopefully, each of these other journeys – whenever they happen – will be as special.

So, how was your weekend?

“I had a house party with some colleagues who had come over! I don’t remember anything that happened on Saturday night!”

“I drove down to Lonavala and spent the weekend there – it was amazing!”

“I flew to Kerala to attend a wedding; it was great to catch up with so many college friends.”

“Oh I… didn’t do much; just relaxed at home.”

It’s the Monday morning stand-up at work, which means you have to deal with the inevitable conversation starter, “So, how was your weekend? What did you do?” Of course, if you have done something memorable, you are just waiting for this question because you have an answer ready (perhaps you even rehearsed it). On the other hand, if you didn’t make plans (or worse, if your plans got cancelled), then this is the time when you (awkwardly) have to admit that your weekend went by faster than you could say “Saturday”.

One of many “expectation vs reality” memes; but what are the expectations in the first place?

I recently listened to this podcast from The Ken – episode 6 of their “Cost to Company” series titled What Does Gen Z Really Want From The Office? The host interviews a few Gen Z-ers to understand what they miss about the office, what they expect from the new rules around hybrid mode, the flexibility of the home environment vs the necessity for connectedness, etc. There is a discussion about the concept of what to do on weekends (around 7:45) – and I could relate to it completely.

Over the last year, the majority of the workforce has had to return to the office, and a significant chunk of that demographic (myself included) has had to relocate to a new city – leaving behind the many comforts of home. This is where the difference seems to lie – when you are in your home city, living with parents/family, then most of your weekend goes in spending time with them. But if you are living in a new city, there is an (inexplicable) urge to get out of the house on weekends.

On top of this, when you exhaust yourself completely pulling in 60-70 hours during the week, the weekend is there to remind you that you have a life outside of work as well (why for some of us “work” feels like a chore that we just want to get done with from Monday to Friday is a topic for a future blog post). Making “plans” for weekends gives you something to look forward to – be it meeting friends, going for a trek, or watching a newly released movie. Unfortunately, it feels like if we do not utilise this (much-needed) break to the fullest, the weekend is “wasted”.

Friday night Google searches

My college in Chennai was a mere 5 kilometres away from home, which means that although I had a hostel room, every Friday evening I would go back home to spend the weekend there. Throughout the four years, I’ve never been part of weekend road trips, getaways, or parties, and… I never felt like I missed out on anything. But now, the same activities that kept me happy earlier seem… insufficient.

If you are a strong introvert, you probably are looking forward to a weekend of “me time”; your “plans” would be to just curl up on the bed, read a good book, or binge-watch the latest series online. Normally, I would see myself doing something similar, but something seems to have changed since my relocation. Is it because others always seem to have something exciting going on but not me? Is it the delayed aftereffect of having been inside the house during all those lockdown months? Or… am I having too much “me time” that I need to have social interactions to get a sense of community and belonging in a new city?

My guide for exploring Mumbai – a very creative Dunzo ad that came in the newspaper that I cut out and put up in my room; not all ticks are visible but last I checked, I would have done around 40 of these activities

I think it comes down to doing something new during the two-day break you get; activities like singing, going for a run, and watching TV are things that “can be done any time” without really putting in the effort to plan for it. And I’ve heard bipolar opinions on (catching up on) sleep – everything from claiming it’s the best way to relax after a tiring week, to feeling guilty for not doing something more productive on a weekend. But going on a trek or going for a team dinner or even wandering a new city on your own gives that extra dopamine spike because a) your efforts of planning paid off b) you have done something that’s not routine c) you have figured/learnt something that you didn’t know before.

So what is the best way to spend your weekend? Do you constantly come up with plans just to appear productive during the weekend? Or is there a way to tune your mind into finding pleasures in simple yet stimulating activities that you can do from within the house? Or do you find a sweet spot that gives the best of both? I’m also thinking the same as I check with a few friends if they are free for dinner on Saturday. If that doesn’t work out, there is always Plan B – I know just the song that I should learn to play on the keyboard. Or who knows – there is always the element of spontaneity!

An alternative perspective – something that I came across coincidentally as I was writing this post

Metaverse or Meta-worse?

As we enter the third year of the pandemic, along with various definitions of the “new normal”, 2022 seems to have multiple new trends popping up across all dimensions. While the title is one trend I’ll get to in a minute, let’s look at some of the other trends and news that I’ve been reading about:

  • Omicron, Omicron everywhere: More lockdowns and curbs on one hand, and Omicron-specific vaccines on the other – is this variant the beginning of the end of the pandemic? Or will there be Pi and Sigma and (finally) Omega variants?
  • Hello Wordl: While the reasons for Wordle’s popularity are simple enough, if you think about it, my God, it’s incredible how this game became so viral. Not to mention the various equally addictive spin-offs the game has spawned, including:
    • Dordle (solving two simultaneous Wordles)
    • Absurdle (aka Adversarial Wordle – where the system tries to play against you by changing the solution word with each guess; kind of like how you play Contact)
    • Primel (guessing a 5-digit prime number the same way you guess a word in Wordle)
    • Wordle Unlimited (why stop with just one word a day?)
    • There is also Stackle – a word-building game that’s quite addictive (different from Wordle but uses a similar interface)
  • NFTs: Okay, I’m no tech expert, and the world of crypto continues to baffle me despite reading up on Web 3.0, blockchain, and some other related concepts. But while I’m sure someday, hopefully, I’ll be able to understand the science behind these, what I’ll never understand is why the heck people are spending millions of dollars to buy… GIFs?! Tweets?! A digital image… that I can also download for free?!
  • Then there are also the Russia-Ukraine situation, 5G, the Indian budget, and other topics, but I will leave those for another day.
The future of art (of course, we would be viewing this gallery in a headset) (Image source)

What’s the Metaverse about anyway?

Now coming to the elephant in the room, the Metaverse. Of course, I can’t write further without referencing the original video that started all this. To those of you who have no idea what the Metaverse is, the video itself should be a good primer (or, if you have seen Ready Player One, think of it like the OASIS universe – complete with James Halliday and Nolan Sorrento counterparts).

(While you are at it, I would also suggest this hilarious spoof of the same video)

“Imagine,” he [Zuckerberg] burbles, “you put on your glasses or headset and you’re instantly in your home space [sic]. There’s part of your physical home recreated virtually. It has things that are only possible virtually and it has an incredibly inspiring view of whatever you find most beautiful.” It goes on like this for 11 minutes. Do keep a sick bag handy in case you decide to have a look.

The metaverse is dystopian – but to big tech it’s a business opportunity [The Guardian]

By now, I am sure there are hundreds of articles and videos with various folks giving their interpretation/opinion on the Metaverse. But the ones I have come across offer largely polarised views – some people praise how this is the future, while others wonder what was wrong with humanity. If it wasn’t obvious already, my support is with those in the second bucket.

I don’t mean to belittle the engineering that has gone/will go into making the Metaverse a reality; there are some remarkable developments in AR/VR and gaming tech that are testimony to the amazing things humans are capable of. Check out this video that shows the latest accomplishments that game developers have achieved with Unreal Engine 5, including simulating scenes from The Matrix. What I find absurd is the concept of a parallel “virtual” universe where we all live via our online counterparts/avatars.

No thanks (Image source)

But, but, but…

Sure, I can understand how creating a new life can give you the illusion of complete control: you can have an entire city for yourself (CityVille, anyone?), you can dye your hair mauve, and drive a Lambo (the quote below from The Guardian puts it nicely). As an escape mechanism, an hour in the Metaverse, or an immersive game, or a VR journey can be liberating.

But how long will it be before the lines between the real and virtual universes blur?

Virtual worlds can be incredibly liberating. The promise of cyberspace, right back to its inception, has been that it makes us all equal, allowing us to be judged not by our physical presentation or limitations, but by what’s inside our heads, by how we want to be seen. The dream is of a virtual place where the hierarchies and limitations of the real world fall away, where the nerdy dweeb can be the hero, where the impoverished and bored can get away from their reality and live somewhere more exciting, more rewarding.

I’ve seen the metaverse – and I don’t want it [The Guardian]

The counter-argument to the absurdity of the Metaverse is to say something along the lines of, “Well, twenty years ago the ideas of instant (digital) payments or Instagram shopping or OTT movie releases would have been equally absurd!” There are always the innovators and early adopters for every trend – and once something gains enough momentum, the laggards have no choice but to follow suit. I wouldn’t be surprised if (some) people who were against “Zoom fatigue” and online college education are themselves now looking for opportunities to make money in the Metaverse.

Now you may ask—well, but why would anyone want to do that [living in a virtual world]? It’s creepy, it’s weird, and who is really going to walk around bumping into each other wearing those heavy, ugly glasses? Well, yes. But that’s today. (emphasis mine)

Facebook’s Metamorphosis [The Nutgraf, The Ken]
As with most of its other episodes, Black Mirror was years ahead of its time… and in this case, so was Walmart (Image source)

Does it boil down to FOMO?

The internet has also coined a convenient term to describe the feeling where you are lagging behind the trend that everyone else has caught up with: FOMO. Perhaps apart from the tech giants who benefit the most from the Metaverse, I don’t think anyone is swept off their feet by the prospect of living in a virtual universe. Is it the fear of being left behind so strong – enhanced by various other tricks that companies will use – that is driving people into absurdity?

[…] the idea is to take the principle of artificial scarcity to an absurdist extreme – to make you want things you absolutely don’t need. The problem is not that I think this won’t work. The problem is that I think it will. The current NFT gold rush proves that people will pay tens of thousands of dollars for links to jpegs of monkeys generated by a computer, and honestly, it is eroding my faith in humanity. What gaping deficiency are we living with that makes us feel the need to spend serious money on tokens that prove ownership of a procedurally generated image, just to feel part of something? (emphasis mine)

I’ve seen the metaverse – and I don’t want it [The Guardian]

Snap back to reality

I know the COVID pandemic has altered our views on several things and has caused irreversible changes in our lifestyle. We would have never settled for online classes or virtual “chai sessions” with our colleagues, but we have adjusted to those by now. The silver lining of the lockdowns/remote work/online classes was that we all learnt to appreciate the real world around us – making the most of an in-person hangout, going to the office just to meet your team… Are we really willing to plug ourselves into a world where we interact with avatars day in and day out? A world where reality becomes the escape route? I’ll end with this quote from The New Yorker that reflects the same.

I tried to imagine myself in a corporate-owned and venture-funded metaverse: a virtual axolotl in a virtual sweater, writing for a virtual magazine in a virtual office, hemorrhaging virtual money. I might covet the Gen Z copy-editor’s avatar, and hope that readers would invest in N.F.T.s of my work. I could be paid in CondéCoin, with a cut going to Meta or Minecraft or Microsoft, whatever corporation or game was my virtual landlord. Weekends would be spent at the arcade, or the casino. My husband and I would go on virtual vacations to virtual worlds, stay with virtual hosts who played virtual games set on virtual farms. I could play to earn—and earn, and earn. I could have everything I wanted, and nothing at all. (emphasis mine)

Money in the Metaverse [The New Yorker]

Being “Human” During a Pandemic

Well, it’s Groundhog day… again, says Phil Connors, Bill Murray’s character in the classic 1993 film Groundhog Day. To those of you unfamiliar with the film’s plot, Phil relives February 2nd (Groundhog Day) over and over, each day starting the same way irrespective of the incidents of the previous instances of the same day.

Almost 30 years later, Indians seem to have a similar experience. After all the struggles, lockdowns, curfews, deaths, and tragedies in 2020, 2021 seems to be an action replay. It is as if someone pressed a reset button after everything we went through exactly a year ago (if you are getting a sense of déjà vu when receiving WhatsApp forwards, chances are the same messages were circulated last year too). If anything, the situation is even more dire now. With more cases (and deaths) every day, a shortage of oxygen, vaccines, and medicines, it is a terrifying time to be living in. Now, there are several issues that make me (and several others) angry – the black marketers exploiting those in need by charging exorbitant prices, the careless folks flouting safety norms and posing a threat to the larger society… However, this article is not about any of those topics. Understandably, even if these things make my blood boil, there is little I can do to change them. So instead, this article is about something individuals like you and I can do to have an impact.

A comic in The Hindu illustrating the oxygen crisis in India

But first, let me go back a few days and tell you what triggered me to write this article. As many of you would know already, the ceremony for the 93rd Academy Awards was held on April 25th this year. Being a movie buff, I too eagerly followed the event online, having a mini celebration whenever a favourite of mine won. This effect lasted five days, after which I read this article in the newspaper. For the first time, I felt somewhat guilty for devoting attention to an awards ceremony that I have otherwise routinely watched or followed year after year in the recent past. While I strongly recommend you to check out the link later, here is an extract for now:

The film we’re speeding through is more reality TV, without the glamour of fake tears dripping off fake eyelashes. The unlikely cast won’t grace a red carpet, or even be allowed near it. A man in a sweat-stained shirt who keeps nodding off. A woman with cracked soles and nervous eyes. A girl who sleeps with her shoes on.
The exhausted hero is the autorickshaw driver who ferries passengers free in any emergency to the nearest hospital. He’s stayed awake and on the road for a week or longer, and has saved a dozen lives at least, not that he counted.
The female lead is the domestic help who walks five miles daily to plead to work all day in an apartment that keeps accusing her of carrying the virus in from her slum. She still lands up because keeping her family alive has more to do with putting food on the table than any microscopic threat.
The supporting actor is a nurse who does back-to-back shifts and sleeps in her uniform and shoes in case she gets called back to an emergency.

 Jane De Suza, “This film we live in”, The Hindu dated April 30, 2021

Over the past 15 months or so, we have seen the best and worst of human behaviour. The majority of us have commended the efforts of some, and criticised (often too quickly) the actions of many others. But the question I ask is this: how many of you have turned the lens on yourself? How many of your actions during the crisis were commendable? How many actions were potentially harmful to others, irrespective of whether you realised it at the time?

Another comic in The Hindu

Here is a biting article elaborating how some Indians breached safety protocols when things were improving, possibly leading to what we are experiencing now; we only have ourselves to blame, as the figure above illustrates. I think it’s fair to say that we have become selfish in one way or the other as the pandemic progressed. We have put our safety first, considered our needs ahead of our neighbour’s, wondered if our birthday celebrations would be virtual again, hoped if we would get additional allowance from our employer, and so on. How many times have we agreed to help a neighbour who has symptoms, or checked to see if our driver’s or maid’s children are coping well with online classes, or given them extra salary?

I say “our” and “we” because I am no higher-order being who is always on the “right path”; I am also human and equally guilty of having such thoughts and doing (or not doing) such actions. Case in point: there was a 20-minute debate at home to decide whether or not to lend our Oximeter to a neighbour who had a 100-degree fever (we did give it, and later religiously doused the Oximeter in sanitiser once we got it back). It seems logical to justify these actions in retrospect by saying that everyone puts safety first and that each of us is able to run his or her life in a way that’s as close to “normal” as possible.  As humans, we also need breaks; we need to forcibly throw ourselves into a different world to attain temporary bliss, which is why we spend hours mindlessly sitting in front of the TV watching IPL or binge-watch Netflix or do crossword puzzles.

In trying times like this, where each of us have our own difficulties to deal with, I propose that we put in some extra effort and take a moment to think about all those we know who have been selfless and caring. I am sure a few minutes of introspection would make you remember people and incidents in your life during the pandemic where someone has done some sacrifice to help you out, or when you have done the same to a friend or family member: a colleague who worked a few extra hours to cover for you when you needed sick leave, your driver who went to the market and got your groceries for you, or the time you paid for your maid’s vaccine or arranged for an ICU bed for a friend (I am reminded of the Hamam advertisement that was made last year, where a girl offers the soap to the delivery man so that he can keep himself safe too; call it brilliant marketing if you will, but it does strike a chord). Do what you can to help those who have not been able to take breaks: frontline workers, delivery men, doctors…

Graffiti artwork in Delhi

It is very easy to fall victim to the “drop in the bucket” effect, where you feel your efforts, however generous, will hardly matter given the massive size of the problem you are trying to solve. But I believe we can all start small. Criticising the mistakes or the stupidity of the masses is unlikely to impact anyone’s life or behaviour, but recognising the efforts and sacrifices of others to make your life a little easier goes a long way in making both your lives happy, as does making tiny contributions to improve the lives of others. You don’t have to donate a million bucks tomorrow or start a large-scale food donation camp, but the first step can be a change in mindset to do one such good deed every week (or every day, if that’s possible).

One of the many NGOs doing exceptional work on ground

It is a dangerous time to step outside, and our go-to instinct is to be intimidated by the risk involved in helping others. But this is why having the change in mindset is the first step; those who want to help will find a way. It is also reasonable to wonder if someone would help if you were in a jam. At this stage, the best we can do is to help others in any way possible, however big or small, and trust that a fellow human will offer a helping hand when we are the ones who need it. 

Me, Myself, and 2020

The end of 2020 is near, and by the looks of it, a good chunk of 2021 will continue to progress with the coronavirus still around. Some of us enter 2021 as optimists, hoping for mass vaccination within a couple of months, while pessimists (and probably realists) brace for further lockdowns, virtual sessions, and whatnot. While 2020 has been a roller coaster in every possible way, I’m fairly confident that there is a significant proportion of the population that has found many aspects of this new lifestyle as a welcome change.

When it comes to the COVID-era lifestyle, I think the most disappointed people are the ones who were/are hoping to go back to the “old” normal, whereas the “new” normal is what we should have all shifted to by now. Those for whom parties, groups, vacations, travel were commonplace are longing to go back to the good old days, while those – like myself – who wanted longer periods of solitude, “me time”, and extra time with Netflix or a good book instead of a pub consider the lockdowns a blessing in disguise.

For a long time, I was under the impression that introversion is a negative quality; people look for social skills, leadership abilities, team spirit, etc., all of which were, by default, assumed to be the qualities of an extrovert. The nature of my current job – which everyone considers a “people’s job” – is also something that I was a tad nervous about, thinking that I had to change my way of life to go with the flow. The virtual induction, then, was in my favour, because my mingling with others would be more gradual, more focused on one-on-one interactions than group chatter, where I end up just listening (mostly by choice).

The other thing that made me feel a lot better about myself was this gem of a book by Susan Cain: Quiet. To those of you who aren’t familiar (or need a refresher), the tagline of the book is The Power of Introverts in a World That Can’t Stop Talking. In the book, you find case studies and examples of introverted leaders, introvert-extrovert couples, and many more, with the underlying message (and proofs) that being an introvert is nothing to be ashamed of, and in fact, can be quite beneficial irrespective of your career path or personal activities. Introversion is not something that needs to be “cured”.

“Introverts may have strong social skills and enjoy parties and business meetings, but after a while wish they were home in their pajamas. They prefer to devote their social energies to close friends, colleagues, and family. They listen more than they talk, think before they speak, and often feel as if they express themselves better in writing than in conversation. They tend to dislike conflict. Many have a horror of small talk, but enjoy deep discussions.”

Susan Cain, Quiet

I’ve been called an “anti-party” person enough times that it’s no longer an “insult”, although that was my impression for quite a while. I’ve learnt and experienced that friendships that thrive through one-to-one interactions are as strong as, if not stronger, than what you get by hanging out in a group. Sure, I won’t have crazy pictures to post on Instagram or birthday collages (well, in my case, only a handful of people even remember my birthday after I took it off Facebook and LinkedIn), but what if you don’t need to share life events publicly in the first place? In the words of Nassim Taleb, missing a train is only painful if you run after it.

Taking myself off social media has been another good outcome of 2020 for the same reason – an act that forced me to go from FOMO to JOMO (“joy of missing out”), the term that is becoming increasingly popular. Not only has the de-addiction given me more time, but has also given me a greater peace of mind with all the noise cut out. [1]

Yes, the current situation is not ideal in many ways with respect to human relationships, but only if you compare it to what once was. When you know you can only control certain factors, the best way to adjust to the new normal is to first accept it. I’m not denying that there are cons in the new normal, but the old normal wasn’t utopia for sure. The COVID impact has been a welcome change for most introverts, while extroverts are taking steps to compensate for all the time they had been cooped up at home. When things actually go back to how they were in 2019, if that happens, it could be time for introverts to change gears again.

Footnotes:

[1] I’ve spent most of this time on reading a plethora of books about various topics, including the very topic of social media addiction. A lot of you would have seen The Social Dilemma, following which you either became paranoid enough to remove your social media accounts as well, or simply brushed aside what the documentary had to offer. If you are more into books, I would suggest reading Weapons of Math Destruction, by Cathy O’Neil, which talks about the dark side of big data and artificial intelligence in general, one application of which is in social media. 

Is There Nothing Good to Talk About?

In the last six months, the COVID-19 pandemic has changed our lives irrevocably in a thousand ways. The majority of things that we did seem to be but a distant memory, so much so that we have forgotten what it is like to go on road trips, or the movie theatre, or have a birthday party with friends, or travel in the local train at rush hour.

Most of us have become accustomed to the “lockdown life”: managing our routine from home, be it virtual classes, remote-working internships, or just lazing around, bored. These things no longer seem novel, although going back to office appears to be a new experience.

People no longer care about the number of cases in their country; the situation in their locality is what matters most now. Now, most countries seem to be in the recovery phase, at least in the sense that people know how to deal with preventive measures until the cure is found (if at all).

If people are talking less about the pandemic, it is because other issues have taken centre stage. Most of my friends with graduate admissions are in a dilemma about visas and online classes. People with job offers in India are anxiously waiting for their start date. However, with all these happening in our lives, every conversation we ever have seems to invariably circle back to COVID-related matters, or something worse. Even when you know that talking about those topics isn’t helping either of you.

Is there nothing good to focus on? Yes, with people falling sick all around and uncertainty on so many fronts, it is difficult to focus on the little blessings of our daily lives. But, if we get joy from watching a hamster on TikTok or comedy shows on YouTube, why can’t we make ourselves happy by finding a silver lining in everything that’s happening around us? What relief do we get by watching people in countries thousands of kilometres away, making their neighbours happy while we grumble at the sight of our neighbours going out without wearing a mask?

Probably the biggest consolation we all have is that we are in this together. Whether your problem is that your admission has been delayed, your job has been revoked, or a loved one is suffering, you are not alone. From my experience, sorrow is always lessened when you know someone else is going through the same misery. Even Facebook says the same thing (bet you never realised it when making fun of the emoji, though).

But surely, we do have enjoyable instances within our houses, however trivial they may seem. Something interesting you learnt in an online class, some new family game you came across, or a story you read can initiate conversations. In a way, this thought process is selfish, where you have to focus on your family and house when there is so much chaos outside. But you are not doing anyone any favours by creating a doleful atmosphere within your house either. I’m sure a lot of us have not spoken to our neighbours in weeks, citing “social distancing” as the reason. At the same time, we also complain about the lack of human contact. Why are we talking about problems where we eliminated the solution to start with?

So, since we are stuck in this “limbo” phase for an unknown period of time, let’s start conversing about the good things in life. Let this become a part of the “new normal” that everyone is emphasising. You don’t have to pretend you are in utopia, but if you look for it, you’ll find happiness around you; if not, create it. Unfortunately, COVID has inverted the meanings of the words “positive” and “negative”, but remember, in these tough times, try to be positive around others without testing positive. 

One Last Time…

My final semester has been cut short by a month and a half because of the Coronavirus outbreak; all the students were asked to vacate the campus and go home. Words can’t describe how big a bummer this was. When was I going to do all the “one last time” stuff? We are deprived of a farewell, my project stands incomplete, there are still so many things I wanted to do with my friends, so many photos I wanted to take… all gone because of pesky little SOBs we can’t even see.

Note: Some of you may be wondering why I am taking a contradictory stance after writing, a few articles earlier, that humans needed the COVID pandemic to learn a few lessons. That’s because a small part of me – and all of us – is selfish. A small part that puts me ahead of everyone and everything else. While I agree with everything I have written in the previous post(s), this article is different and represents another perspective – one that is driven by that selfish part.

Somehow, I have never missed a place when I left it. Not the school where I studied for eleven years, and certainly not the school where I spent my 11th and 12th grade studying for engineering entrance exams. But I’m in my final semester of college now, the place that has been my second home for four years, and for the first time, I feel a void forming. I can sense that I am going to miss my college the day I graduate and enter the corporate world.

I think it’s because this is the first educational institution that has been so much more to me than a place of learning. For most of us, it has been anything but that. With a life expectancy of 70+ years, you wonder why these four years (give or take) in college make perhaps the biggest difference to your life.

There will be certain things you will miss about college life in general, and for me, the most important thing is the protected environment. These four years are for you to experiment, in pretty much every domain: subjects, careers, relationships, independence… you can afford to make a mistake, you can afford to fail. The moment you go out, the world outside is far less forgiving if you screw up. Would I miss the campus itself? I don’t think so. I am going to be in India for the next few years surely, and I’ll have a chance to visit the college every time I come home.

Would I miss the people? A select few, definitely. From the schools I have studied in, I am currently in touch with only a handful of people; a handful of people after 13 years of schooling. Thanks to this, I thought I was mentally prepared for the fact that only some of the people I have interacted with, in these four years, will stay. As I change cities or jobs, I will meet new people, new acquaintances, new neighbours, new colleagues… and that’s how it is. The phrases “Keep in touch!” and “We’re in the same state, we’ll meet often!” are more of courtesy statements than promises.

I don’t think I’m ready to let go of a few people I’ve met in college. In all probability, Skype calls will still happen, yearly meetups will still happen, but the comfort of knowing that they are just five minutes away in another hostel is gone. As you grow older, with more maturity, you choose your friends wisely. I guess that’s why you value friendships more too, and the pain of losing them is also more.

But the four years in college – surprising as it is that they’ve gone by in a flash – have given me a truckload of memories, many of which I revisited last week. The college tradition is for final year students to make a farewell form of sorts that their juniors or friends fill in and one question I had asked was what their favourite memory with me was. But, in the end, that’s all you can take with you. This reminds me of my earlier blog post where I talked about experience vs memory and which one matters more.

I’ve heard from enough seniors that after college, “life becomes boring”. And incredibly busy for most of us. You don’t stay in touch if you don’t set aside time for it, and the longer you put off a phone call or meeting, the lesser you start to miss your friends, and the (vicious) cycle goes on.

I’ve seen my parents’ generation still stay in touch with at least a handful of college friends decades after graduation. Somehow, I feel that my generation has already got accustomed to the fact that friendships won’t last. I came across this wonderful article in the paper a few weeks back. You see a friend text suddenly after two months and you immediately know he wants something from you, but he needs to exchange a few pleasantries first as an act of courtesy. It rarely or never dawns on you that perhaps your friend is calling just to talk to you.

The phase “cold-calling” has a negative connotation because it either reminds you of random call-centre guys nagging you (to sign up for an insurance policy perhaps) or it reminds you of the time you sent emails and LinkedIn requests to two dozen HR managers requesting a summer intern, and none of them replied. Why don’t you try cold-calling your friend?

It seems appropriate to end with this quote from the sitcom, How I Met Your Mother, which speaks for itself. If you really want to stay in touch, set your ego aside, and be the one to initiate a conversation. I’m sure you’ll be quite surprised at how much you have to catch up with someone in the future.

Lockdown: Week 3

So, the big news: lockdown has been extended till the end of April in pretty much all parts of India. Having survived 3 weeks of the lockdown, most Indians have become accustomed to the new lifestyle while bracing for worse days ahead in terms of the rise in cases, loss of jobs and other difficulties.

People in their homes are doing all sorts of things, with different motivations. Some people are bored, not knowing what to do; every day feels the same (Groundhog Day makes a lot more sense now) and the light at the end of the tunnel never seems to appear. Others are glued to Netflix and movies and songs, catching up on a lot of missed entertainment. Others, myself included, are considering this a gem of an opportunity to do all the things we wanted to do and to make every day productive… till I saw the post below which hit me harder than it should have.

Having studied four years in a premier engineering college, I had become hard-wired to make each day productive (or, of course, to compensate for it somehow). How many course videos can I complete today? How many chapters in the book can I read? And I’m sure I’m not alone; a lot of people are going through this period in this manner. I’m sure there are people agitated enough out there who are sending mails to their bosses or professors like: “As I am suffering from leave, please give me two days work.”

While in the earlier post, I did say that we should all find things to do, I’d like to add a footnote to that saying, “It’s okay if a day or two go by where you don’t know what to do.” We are all in different levels of comfort, danger, productivity and pressure in this situation and it doesn’t make sense to be in a rat race now. These are unprecedented events for most of us and it is okay to be clueless or scared as long as you can find a way to keep going. At the end of the day, you should be happy if none of your household members is affected or sick and not grumble if you didn’t finish an assignment you were supposed to.

India is far from flattening the curve and the numbers only go up every day. We have to start preparing ourselves for tighter measures and more frugal lifestyles, at least for a temporary period, till we cross the peak of the pandemic. This is the time when doctors, the police force, the media, health workers and engineers have real power to (practically) run the nation; they have more on their hands than ever before.

This is a time when Indians need to think together to win the war, but instead, we are seeing fallouts at the community level. Certain sects of people are being alienated, people are still selfish when it comes to getting supplies from shops, and there are still people who don’t grasp the seriousness of the situation. I think it’s an Indian thing where if you are ordered not to roam around on the streets, people will go around just to see who else is doing the same thing!

The third week has exposed the underlying human prejudices and hatred more than ever before. When things were “normal”, none of these mattered but when there’s a pandemic, suddenly every country’s residents turn racist and even violent. The virus is doing enough damage by itself. The virus should not turn our friends into enemies but rather, we should all understand that the virus is the common enemy.

Lockdown: Week 2

It has been 14 days into the Indian lockdown and slowly, people have adjusted to the new normal. They are discovering new ways to keep themselves engaged at home, learning to use resources judiciously and we’re seeing many Good Samaritans across the country. At the same time, some folks claim to be “going insane” within their houses, unable to go out, people are doing increasingly stupid things from cooking up conspiracy theories to using the pandemic to fuel their personal feuds and prejudice against communities and groups. Like any other disaster, the COVID-19 pandemic has brought out people’s extreme natures.

In the paper and news channels, you see some leaders taking extremely good measures, some of them helping out other countries and others who still seem to not understand the gravity of the situation. For every volunteer putting his life on the line, someone is violating quarantine and endangering others. For every doctor or medical professional prophesying a dark but honest future, there is another set of people who are trying to cover up the ground reality and give false hopes. The other major debate the pandemic has triggered is that of “religion versus science”, with no side dominating the other. 

A lot of you are surely eagerly counting down the days to April 15 when the lockdown will supposedly be lifted because you think it’ll give you new-found freedom. My question to you is: what’s the first thing (or first three things) you will do when the lockdown is lifted? Run on the street? Meet up with your boyfriend? Go straight to your desk in the office?

The answer to that question tells you what you’ve really missed in this period: friends? Family? Routine work-life? While you’re thinking about this, also imagine how difficult it’s going to be to do some activities that were so common earlier. Can you ever go to a movie theatre or cricket match without fear? Can we all move to a stage where we are no longer apprehensive of people who cough or sneeze? You may have missed a truckload of things but perhaps it is worth considering this lockdown period as a transition phase into a new world on the other side. 

That’s what the second week is mainly about – a transition. In this week, you’ve realised that nothing goes according to plan beyond a certain extent and that new surprises and bombshells are always around the corner. People are sharing posts, prayers and challenges online that they never would have done on a non-corona day and memes which were once funny are now becoming scary. It is that period when you are starting to get used to the situation while also eagerly waiting for the last day of the lockdown.  

You know what kind of plan never fails? No plan at all. No plan. You know why? If you make a plan, life never works out that way. (translated)

Ki-taek, Parasite (2019)

This pandemic – by the time it crosses over completely – would have completely changed the way we live, from our household duties to our career paths. Some sectors are losing billions of dollars due to the pandemic while others are getting new projects and jobs because of it. Students worldwide are going to question the need for classrooms at all, institutes will capitalise on remote learning to take in twice or thrice as many applicants, healthcare industries are working overtime and the tourism industry has become non-existent. 

This is turning out to be the true test of people’s character, leadership and change management skills in any industry. Five years from now, I think people are going to be more interested in knowing how you managed your team in this crisis than if you are an MBA graduate from a top B-school. They are going to value the skills you used to acclimatise to the situation rather than the courses you’ve done and the skillset you claim to have. Similarly, using this time to learn a new skill – or better yet, develop or work on something to fight against the coronavirus – can possibly fill the gap in your resume of the internship opportunity you lost.

The same goes even in the domestic sphere: this is a test of how we change our lives at home and social skills appropriately. A few years ago, people were so excited when thinking about a digital future where everyone would communicate only through screens but suddenly people are upset that they haven’t spoken in person to anyone in days? People who, at one point, hated going to office are now getting irritated with WFH also. Humans are indeed “social animals” but we are also creatures who can adapt ourselves to any situation. 

The two weeks of lockdown have taught us a lot of things: our priorities can change dramatically over a week, some of us want a stronger WiFi connection while others want a stronger social connection and “long-term” planning now means what you’re going to do next week. It has also taught us that delivery men, farmers, and doctors are some of the lifelines of the country and the planet while entertainers are not. Let’s use this time to remember and thank these souls who are fighting the virus for us. Let’s stay safe and hope they are safe too. We need these people to do their job. We need them to show us hope. We need to show them we care too. 

Lockdown: Week 1

One month ago, in an interview, I was asked, “What’s making headlines today?” Had I been asked, “What do you think will make headlines one month from now?”, there is no way I would have been able to predict the bleak reality we are in right now. In the span of a couple of weeks, the world has gone into hibernate mode, uncertain of when it’ll wake up to the day when this is all over.

India – its entire population of over 1.3 billion people – entered a 21-day lockdown phase (very likely to be extended further). Not even one week is complete, but the definition of a “normal” livelihood has drastically changed and for most people, that’s bad news. School children have the extended break they always wanted, while college and university folks are worried about their summer interns getting cancelled. Migrant workers and students studying abroad are miles away from home, while thousands of other families are spending time together like never before.

So what are people doing at home? Those who have corporate jobs are mostly working from home (WFH could now very well be the most commonly used three-letter abbreviation starting with W, overtaking “WTF”), college students are engaging in online classes – which isn’t a new thing for most people anyway – everyone is finally finding time to revive long-dead hobbies and pastimes, everyone is catching up with friends after years of no communication…

It seems like paradise when you put it like this, but reality is quite the opposite. Thanks to social media, news channels and pretty much anything and anyone you interact with, all you hear and see are facts, updates, articles and of course, rumours about COVID-19. Every phone call, every dinner table conversation and even memes are all built around the virus attack.

While I agree that it is important to be aware of what’s going on outside your house, in your state and country, the pandemic shouldn’t rule you inside your house. Checking the daily death toll should not be your morning cup of coffee and posting a pessimistic, apocalyptic message shouldn’t be your bedtime prayer. Among all the other “#stayathome” challenges and the like that you decide to take part in, why don’t you take up the challenge of having an entire conversation and not talk about the crisis?

Again, it is understandable that practically everything we do in a day depends on the situation outside – from getting the newspaper in the morning to getting groceries for the upcoming week to thinking about the security of your future job or MS admit. But you must also understand that there are only so many things in your control. Yes, it is difficult to sit through online lectures when your future admit or job is so uncertain. It is difficult to read a novel when all you can think of at the back of your head is whether you will get groceries tomorrow. You are very likely in that state where you can’t even cough without feeling guilty or touch a bread packet without instinctively wondering how many others have laid their hands on the same thing.

How you act today depends on what your priorities and worries are. Some people are okay with sacrificing lives to make the economy boom, some shopkeepers don’t give a damn about social distancing because they want to make as much money as they can to put food in their stomach, some are selfless enough to put their life on the line to save a dozen others. Whether you choose to get aggravated by the “irresponsible” acts of others or choose to do your duties responsibly is your call (remember that an innocent jog around the neighbourhood or the act of walking your dog could be panned by several others as “irresponsible”). The same goes with whether you want to enter a state of paranoia by seeing the numbers every day or whether you want to enter a state of blissful ignorance or find the sweet zone where you are cognizant of what’s happening but are calm enough to carry on with your household activities and hobbies.

I am not saying that you must completely stay away from COVID-19 news or articles or updates of all sorts. Admittedly, some of the memes and awareness messages are incredibly creative and funny, and this is much-needed relief from the grim news sessions (case in point, watch this 6-minute clip of the iconic “Do Re Mi” song from The Sound of Music modified to suit the COVID-19 crisis). At the same time, you can choose to stay away from pessimistic and racist posts and rumours.

You can also distract yourself in so many ways at home without feeling guilty for consciously dragging yourself away from the crisis for a while. Sing a song, exercise inside the house, play with your dog, learn to cook a new dish… there are enough things to keep yourself busy while still following hygiene measures and maintaining social distance. Next time you see the sports page of the newspaper covering events which aren’t most people’s priority (“Who cares if so-and-so is too old to compete in the postponed Olympics?! There’s no milk today!”) or a seemingly irrelevant article about blockchain technology, think of it as a welcome break. Use this time to do what you’ve always wanted to do but didn’t find time for. The lockdown could go on for 14 more days or a month, but take it one day at a time.